Updated: 28th February 2009

http://www.friendsofbidstonhill.com/

Bidston - The Hill

Kenneth Burnley, in his book Portrait Of Wirral describes Bidston Hill thus: Mention of Bidston Hill conjures up, for me, fond memories of long childhood hours spent playing in its woods, picnicking on its springy turf, and hiding in its secret places. And always, the feeling that this was no ordinary place. And indeed few other parts of Wirral can offer so much of interest in such a small area. Where else in a few hundred acres can you find open, gorse-covered heathland with fine land and sea views, pine woods and rhododendrons, a lighthouse, an observatory, a windmill, rock carvings, and a fascinating seventeenth century village?

And Harry Neilson wrote: I distinctly remember a walk over Bidston Hill when a child with an elder sister, about the year 1868. A fresh breeze was blowing and the sails of the mill were turning round in full swing, grinding corn. A cart, laden with sacks of flour, stood just ready to leave by the stony cart track to the road below while the miller stood by chatting to the carter. As we stood watching, the loaded cart moved off and the miller asked us if we would care to look inside the mill. His invitation was gladly accepted and in we went. My first and lasting impression was of the loud buzzing noise of the machinery, very like the sound of a swarm of angry bees but much louder, and my next, the whiteness of everything inside the mill, caused by the coating of fine white flour dust which nothing could escape, not even the miller himself.

Portrait of Wirral. Kenneth Burnley. Hale Publications


Bidston Hill from St Hilary's Brow, Wallasey - December 2004


1844 Map showing land allocated to various locals on Bidston Hill


Bidston Hill 1904, from a copy at Tam O'Shanter's Cottage; as is the image of the Mill below (1904)


This is an Oliver Silk original dated 1923 of Bidston Hill

And the following is dated 1937, also from Tam O'Shanter's cottage files


Bidston Lighthouse


Bidston Observatory

Top left is the lighthouse. Bottom left is Bidston Observatory. Top right is the Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory


As you can see from this Proudman map, the village is now "cut off" from the mainstream of traffic. In July 2003
I visited Bidston to take some photo's. It is now a through road into the local estate.


Tam O'Shanter's cottage

Most of the cottages which at one time were scattered about the slopes of the hill have gone. A few, however, remain; and one in particular has an interesting history, and a romantic link with the Scotland of two hundred years ago. Tom o’Shanter’s Cottage was built in 1837 as a small farm, holding about six acres of the surrounding land. Its tenant in 1841 was Richard Leay, a master stonemason and probably a Scotsman. It is likely that Richard Leay carved the stone set in the gable end of the cottage, the stone which gave the cottage its name. The stone depicts a scene front the poem “Tam o’Shanter” by Robert Burns. In the poem, Tam was riding home after a day at market, a little the worse for drink. The night was dark and stormy, and on the way he disturbed a party of witches in the old haunted Kirk of Alloway. The drunken Tam roared out “Weel done, Cutty Sark” at the leader, and was immediately chased by the witches. Tam managed to get across a bridge and the witches, who would not dare cross running water, caught the horse’s tail. Tam escaped, but “Poor Maggie” lost her tail:


Now, do thy speedy utmost, Meg,
And win the key-stane of the brig;
There, at them, thou thy tail may toss,
A running stream they dare na cross.
But ere the key-stane she could make,
The fient a tail she had to shake!
For Nannie, far before the rest,
Had upon noble Maggie prest,
And flew at Tam wi’ furious ettle;
But little wist she Maggie’s mettle
Ae spring brought aff her master hale,
But left behind her am grey tail:
The cárlin caught her by the rump,
And left poor Maggie scarce a stump


The cottage continued as a small farm for over a hundred years but, after being burnt down several times in the 1950s,was on the point of being demolished completely when the Birkenhead Historical Society, backed by the Council, stepped in with a scheme to restore it. With the help of local schools, organizations and individuals, Tam O’Shanter’s Cottage has been completely restored and is now a fully equipped field study centre. The annual rent on the cottage, one pine cone,  is paid over to the Mayor of Wirral by the trustees each spring as part of a tradition which goes back to the days when squatters moved into the area. Another Custom, that of egg rolling, has recently been revived here too. Crowds gather on Easter Monday to roll gaily coloured hard-boiled eggs down the field in front of the cottage, the object being to get an egg into a hole cut in the turf at the foot of the slope. Egg rolling was popular in several parts of Wirral — the “bonks” of Birkenhead Park and Irby Hill were popular venues - and had its origin in the early days of Christianity, the egg being regarded as a symbol of hope and resurrection.
 

Taken from the book "Portrait of Wirral" By Kenneth Burnley of which I managed to obtain a first edition!! Another excellent book from Ken is "Images of Wirral" which I actually bought from a bookshop in South Carolina via the internet. Some beautiful photographs by Guy Huntingdon. Feb 2004.

Newsflash. Received an email on 20 Jan 05 passing on the following information. My thanks to David Evans. Major concern is plan for sale of Bidston Observatory. I was hoping that with Liverpool being awarded City of Culture 2008,an attempt might have been made by the council to build on this by emphasising the Observatory's maritime links and attempt to get funding to create an annexe to the Maritime Museum in Liverpool or at least create a field work centre. Latest plan is either a hotel or housing.

I was under the impression that the Council took on Bidston Hill on the strict understanding that NO HOMES were built on the hill - mk.

Probably the oldest feature on the Hill is a four and a half foot long carving of a 'Sun Goddess', carved into the flat rock north-east of the Observatory - it is supposed to face the direction of the rising sun on midsummer's day and was thought to have been carved by the Norse-Irish around 1000 A.D. (See images below) Another ancient carving of a horse can be found on the bare rock north of the Observatory, just before the path turns down to Bidston Village. Other, more recent rock carvings can be seen on the vertical rock face just south of the Observatory. In 1407 part of the Hill was enclosed by a wall known as Penny-a-day Dyke to create a deer park for private deer hunting. The remains can be seen along the edge of the wood (Park Wood) just below the ridge from the Mill to the Observatory. The 'Cock-Pit' is another strange feature on the Hill to be found at the very northern end near to Bidston Hall. Consisting of a narrow circular trench, approximately 10 inches deep and 20 feet in diameter cut into the bare sandstone surrounded by tall gorse bushes. Thought to be the site where cock-fighting took place, it could also be the remains of a small gorse mill where gorse was crushed for animal feed. An old, disused mill would have been an ideal location for this illegal sport. From 1763 a Signal Station was located on the Hill eventually consisting of over 100 flagpoles sited all along the ridge of the Hill. Mostly used to send messages to the merchants of Liverpool of incoming ships, some were also used to warn of enemy warships and ships in distress. The most visible hole that remains is approximately 30 yards north of the Windmill. In 1771 the first lighthouse was built, it replaced Lower Mockbeggar light, which collapsed on Moreton foreshore. An octagonal building, it formed part of the chain of semaphore signals along the N. Wales coast. A message could be sent from Holyhead to Liverpool in 8 minutes!


 

Bidston Lighthouse on Bidston Hill. July 2003.

The following images were all captured on 12th February 2004 on a subsequent visit

Looking from Bidston Hill towards the Mersey and the Pier Head in the distance. Taken from the north end of the Hill before the lighthouse. These images will follow in sequence a circular walk from Bidston Village and back along the "lower" western side of the Hill.
Approaching the Bidston Lighthouse from the north
Bidston Lighthouse
I had to climb a tree for this image of the Lighthouse entrance, at my age - phew!!
Ah the memories of youth! A collapsed stone wall showing downwards to the western side of the Hill where I would spend many an hour just wandering along the paths and gullies, clearings and ferns.
Then we arrive nearly at the apex of the hill, at the Bidston Observatory, well documented above.
Heading on past the Observatory, we are now walking towards the Windmill, not yet in view. Note the large rock structures, dominant on the Hill.
Crossing the rocks, looking left towards Rock Ferry and Cammell Laird Shipyard
Looking down on Birkenhead, the Church of St Jimmy's dominates the foreground
The apex of Bidston Hill. I recall, in my youth, this had a glorious brass dial upon the top, giving directions and distance to various landmarks in the north west. Presumably vandalised like everything else these sad days.
the said bridge over the road about 50 - 60 feet below, at a guess. Plans are also in hand to paint this bridge - in rainbow colours!! I am not convinced that's a good move though, too bright maybe?

 

February 2006

Tree Planting. Tam O'Shanters & Friends of Bidston Hill. An item by Genevieve Wilkinson.

Part of the money we’ve been given was to help regenerate both Park Wood, to the left of the windmill stretching all the way to Bidston Village, and Taylor’s Wood, running from the health land to Claughton. We had found that that a lot of the trees were all about the same age and if we didn’t encourage the bio-diversity back into the woodlands we ran the risk of losing them completely in 40 or 50 years. So we have brought 585 trees of differing species (all native to the hill) and on the 14th of January this year we invited the Mayor , Christine Meakin and her Consort, Eddie Meakin to start our tree planting sessions, they were joined by the young people of the EdMuse Project, Our Chair, Moyna Knottenbelt, the Chair of Friends of Flaybrick, Simon Petrus and his Wife, Mary and myself and Nic Harding. (thanks for taking the photo Nic)

 

Since that date we have planted over 300 trees in both woods, and are on target to plant the rest on the next few Fridays. We have even had two members of one of the local newspapers, Lorna and Paul from the Wirral News. Any-one who would like to plant a tree is welcome to come along on Friday mornings, meet at Tam O’Shanters urban farm at 10.30, please wear stout shoes and clothes you don’t mind getting a bit muddy.

You’ll be in good company, Here’s Mike planting a Rowan in Taylor’s Wood during his recent visit to the hill.

Genevieve Wilkinson - Press Officer. Friends of Bidston Hill 14th Feb 2006.
(July 2007: sadly I think its been vandalised).

The Living Spaces Grant and other works on Bidston Hill.

Currently, the friends of Bidston Hill and the Rangers service are coming to the end of a three year grant to restore and reinvigorate Bidston Hill. In total, we have received £30,000 to spend on heath land and forest regeneration, opening views, creating a Heritage trail and many other things. Already we have a brought a Chipper and a Flail to go on the tractor and have been able to employ a great company to work along side our volunteers from Friday Group to help us achieve our aims. Over the next few months you can learn how we have spent this money and how it has improved the hill.

The Direction Finder.

Genevieve Wilkinson pictured at the plinth on February 6th 2006. See bottom of page for manufacturers link

 

For a great many years, there were three direction finder plates on various places on Bidston Hill. They looked very similar to sundials and had marked the direction of numerous points of interest with the distance to them, a true piece of Victorian sensibility in an era before cars, high speed trains and the information superhighway. The Direction Finders were removed from the hill during the second world war in case of invasion and only one was replaced afterwards, this remaining plate then disappeared in the sixties.

We felt it would be proper to replace this last direction finder and set Glyn, our Historian to work collecting all the information he could. In November last year we finally resorted to asking the local press for help in locating information about what was on the original plates and their size, on the 30th our appeal went to the public on page three of the Wirral News and by 10.30am that morning we couldn’t believe our luck! A very kind gentleman called the rangers office to say “I think I have your direction finder dial” not only did he have a direction finder, he had the first one made, which was never finished due to the size of the writing, this meant we had a visible, intact dial to create a new one with. Anyone who remembers the old direction finder on the hill will remember that the writing had nearly been worn away with years of polishing.

At this present moment in time, thanks to ranger Nic’s drawing skills the new direction finder is in production and will be replaced on the hill by the end of February. We invite you all to come and view the places for yourselves but we can’t guarantee the weather.

Any one wishing to join the friends of Bidston hill can drop into Tam O’Shanter's urban farm any day of the week between 9.30 am and 4.30 pm where you can pick up an application form, find out about how you can volunteer with us to help manage the hill or even just find out a little more about this wonderful area of countryside preserved in the middle of modern day Wirral.

Genevieve Wilkinson - Press Officer

The Friends of Bidston Hill Feb 5th 2006
 

An article in the Wirral News dated 8th February 2006 (click on image for full size). My sister Michelle sent me this

 

From Mike February 6th 2006

I had the pleasure of visiting Tam O'Shanter's Farm to meet up with Genevieve Wilkinson who kindly offered to show me not only the farm but the Hill. She showed me things on the hill that I must have walked past a thousand times without noticing! I am amazed, not only at that which she revealed to me but the depth of her knowledge of Bidston Hill, Flaybrick, Tam O'Shanters, the Windmill, the plants and the rocks. Below are those images I took on this day. Click on the images to see full sized. On the subject of the future of the Observatory, I feel that it is imperative that this does not fall into the greedy hands of developers, it must be preserved for future generations and could be an excellent museum of the history of Bidston Village and Hill.

The welcome sign as you enter from the car park. http://www.tamoshanterfarm.org.uk/


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1200 hrs And I arrive at Tam O'Shanters Urban Farm

My first impressions were good, its come on a long way since the last time I saw this place, from the road admittedly, which was admittedly some time ago.


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Its quite obvious that a lot of very hard work has gone into the site

The enclosures for the animals and birds are rotated yearly and are very spacious


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And the housing for the animals is of the highest quality, nothing has been spared for their comfort

The actual cottage has been thatched to perfection.


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And, from the other side

This young feller is one of three piglets born in December 2005


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Inside the eco built workshops, the walls are actually made from straw

Genevieve Wilkinson, Scourge of the Council Committee's, helps me to plant two Rowan trees near to the Farm


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One of the two Rowan Trees I planted, a very pleasing moment for me.

Nearby, the remains of a tree that had been hit by lightening


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The Sheep

One of the beautiful things about woodland walks is - look down - many beautiful things pass by your feet


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Lichen and fungi adorn the remains of tree stumps, making life grow from death, the entire recycling process
On the fun side, a nearby allotment had this miniature model of Bidston Hill


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Who remembers Bill & Ben - come on - admit it?
Donkeys on the farm


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The end of the cottage, showing the Tam O'Shanter mural

Bidston Hill


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And then Genevieve & myself went up onto the hill. Here we see the windmill, soon to have a renovated roof.

Conservationists rest on a lunch time break after being busy on Gorse clearance


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Carved into the doorway on the Mill. Restored 1894

The roof as seen before the renovation work, due to commence on February 19th with the lifting to the top of the Hill of scaffolding etc.


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Genevieve by the plinth where the direction finder will soon be reinstalled after many years. The original disc, which is gunmetal, and was first rejected, will replace the missing brass disc long since vanished. Its hoped to renovate the plinth also and remove the distasteful graffiti.

Stone carving of a man's face, probably put there by the workmen installing some wooden postholes which can be seen close by.


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Beech clearance on the top of the Hill between The Mill and the Observatory
Below the observatory, the giant Beech had to be felled as it had grown so large it was a danger to the public, the weight of the boughs was quite formidable.


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Oh, how many times did I drink out of this fountain in my young days after climbing all the way up from the Village below? It would be very nice if they could restore this, a fountain of refreshment on a hill of pleasure.

On the side of the fountain reads "Glenfield & Kennedy Kilmarnock" see base of page.


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First of the rock carvings, a mans head and torso possibly 15th - 16th C

Second Carving, also of a man and torso, arm raised pointing towards the sea (west)


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The inscription reads J Leay and is the daughter of Richard Leay

Horsehead carving


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The carving of the Sun Goddess with gorse in her belly and womb.

And nearby, the Moon God which is almost obliterated. It will have to be recarved to ensure its survival.


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This is most intriguing, it stretches from probably the base of the Hill near the farm to the top of the Hill above Bidston Hall and is carved with horizontal lines at regular intervals. My theory is that it was "rutted" to provide grip for wagon wheels taking corn/grain up the Hill at the shallowest climb in order for it to be transported along the top to the windmill.

Next to the highest section of the "road" is this carving of a horses head. I can recall this area vividly and recall that this stone must have been covered over in my youth (60s) as the head when shown to me by Genevieve is new to my mind, never having seen it before.


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This is a view of both the "roadway" and the horse carved large stone.

Located not too far from the Bidston Lighthouse as you can see from this image.


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The cock fighting pit. Personages who won certain numbers of fights were allowed to carve their names in the stone. "Evil" is one such carving and

this was another but I cannot make it out on the image


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Bidston Hall from the top of the Hill, beyond is the Village.

This tree is a one off, the only one of its kind on the Hill. Its a Maritime Pine.


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Symbiotic growth. A Horse Chestnut grows out of the limb of a dead tree. The dead tree is a Cherry Lime.

As we went around full circle, another view of the conservationists hard at work.


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Heading back towards the Urban Farm, the area where my two Rowan trees will hopefully flourish and provide please for generations to come, long after my passing!

February 16th 2006:

I returned To Tam O'Shanters on February 16th along with my wife Sue, and my youngest child Lorna. Here we enjoy the excellent food in the cafe on the Farm. Then with Genevieve & Mark, we went on a tour of Flaybrick Cemetery, across the road from the Farm.


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Arnie at the Farm

In the students classroom I spotted these two signs obviously once in place on the Hill.


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The following were taken by my daughter Lorna

Hello duckie!

The Following taken on April 15th 2007

I returned to the Hill on 14th June 2006 and took a few images; some can be seen on bidston2.html and on the Friends of Bidston Hill page, the rest are below:

1. Boundary Road looking west. 2. Boundary Road looking east towards Village 3. Tam O'Shanters 4. Gothic architecture in nature 5. Woodland

6. Towards North Wales 6a. Close up 7. Towards Moreton and the sea 8. Close up

1. Observatory 2. End of wall showing building technique 3. Woodland

25th February 2007. I paid another visit to Bidston today.  Here are my images taken today

Water fountain:

http://www.firehydrant.org/pictures/glenfield-kennedy.html

http://www.archives.gla.ac.uk/collects/catalog/ugd/001-050/ugd005-pfv.html

Other Sites

http://www.friendsofbidstonhill.com/

http://www.flaybrick.com

http://brynjones.members.beeb.net/wastronhist/p_iroberts.html

http://www.seds.org/messier/xtra/Bios/roberts.html

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/doodson_arthur.shtml

http://www.uboat.net/boats/u480.htm

http://www.uboat.net/allies/merchants/ship.html?shipID=3328

I also thoroughly recommend the books of Kenneth Burnley, local Historian and lover of The Wirral